‘Mother of all battles’: terror for Mexicans as war rages inside Sinaloa cartel

Violence shows few signs of ending after three months of war between rival factions that have left more than a thousand dead or disappeared

One bright recent morning, Culiacán threw a party like old times, with chefs serving up aguachile, a Sinaloan-style ceviche, and musicians blasting a riot on their trumpets and drums.

“It used to be like this every weekend,” said Alexis, one of the apprentice chefs, taking a moment in the cool quiet of the cathedral.

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