‘I told him to stop’: the elite restaurant culture that consumed me
To enter a four-star dining room like Jean-Georges is to enter a world of perfection. But in dark corners hidden from guests is its cruel and seedy underbelly
I was working at Jean-Georges, the petite and bourgeois restaurant tucked into Trump’s building on Columbus Circle, just off Central Park, where the sounds and smells of New York faded into the austere dining room. It was a room of extravagances small and large.
There’s no pleasure in a four-star dining room, no joviality. You can’t be jocular with your fellow servers. There’s no room for error. A server is not permitted to do the following: wear colored nail polish; cross hands in front of the body; slouch; speak on the floor; carry a glass from the bar to the table without a tray; show visible tattoos; wear hair in an inappropriate manner (this can be at the discretion of a manager); touch a glass by any part except the stem; pour wine in the incorrect order; spill; laugh.
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